Sunday, 7 December 2014

Evaluation

I have enjoyed looking at the Elizabethan era and the makeup they wore. Its been great looking into their ideal of beauty and researching the effects this had on the people of that time such as the balding and skin conditions the products they used caused. 
It was great learning not only the basics of makeup but specific techniques used in the Elizabethan era such as blocking eyebrows and the perfect white base. Over the course of the weeks I feel my confidence with these skills has grown and after much practice in and out of class I feel that these are now at the level id be proud to present. 
Working towards this final assessment has been a lot of work and I think if I had managed my time better in the beginning I would have dealt with the project in a more effective way. 
Working with my partner Layna was great because we both were able to communicate our ideas throughout the process and adjust our designs to each others work ability. Both myself and Layna made significant changes to our design but both were able to communicate these new ideas and find a way for our partner to best achieve our goals. 

On the next project I will definitely work more on time management now that I have got my basic skills down. This should help me deal with the workload more.

Final Assessment of My Partners Design

These are the final images from my final assessment. I'm extremely please with the way the look turned out and i really enjoyed doing the makeup. The design Layna gave me was well labelled and the instructions were clear which lifted a big weight from the stress of the assessment. 
I love this design although it did challenge me. I think its really strong and contempary however it still bares symbols of the elizabethan era. 
To create this look I had to use many of the skill I have learnt this term. The base had to be perfect as to not distract from the heavy eye makeup and dark lip. I used tape to get the angles of the eye makeup perfect. This is the part of the look that actually took the longest as I had to make sure that each line was symmetrical. 
To get the placement of the pearls correct I had to almost fully recline Layna in her chair to make sure that the pearls wouldn't then roll off while the glue was still wet. 
I really think that the colour palette of this look complements Layna. her green eyes suit the grey colours colours used really well. This is something that we considered when updating Laynas design. 



My Final Design




These are the final images from Laynas final assessment of my design. I'm really happy with the way she was able to bring my design to life. My look went through some drastic changes through the design process but she was able to understand each change and knew that it would benefit the look.
This look is a monochromatic look focusing on the heavy contouring and contrast of the face. I wanted the face to be pale to contrast with the burgundy contour.
I love this rouge colour as it really reminds me of the Elizabethans and their love of the colour red in their makeup look. It reminds me of that deep cochineal red.
The lips are a heart shape as this tight, pinched shape of the mouth is very Elizabethan.
The lashes are topped with gold which resembles royalty. This is what I want this look to portray

Instructions for My Partners Final Design

My Partners Final Assessment

NEEDED:
  • Foundation Palette
  • Foundation Brush
  • Buffing Brush
  • Concealer Palette
  • Loose Powder
  • Tape
  • Flat Shader Brush
  • Eye Blending Brush
  • Kryolan Eyeshadow Palette
  • Pearl Beads
  • Eyelash Glue
  • Mascara
  • Angled Brush
  • MAC Lip Mix in Red and Black
  • Lip Liner



METHOD:
1. Apply Foundation with foundation brush. Buff into skin with stripping brush until it is no longer visible on the skin.
2. Powder the skin with loose powder.
3. Use tape to tape of the triangular shapes of the eye, taking extra care to ensure they are symmetrical.
4. Start by working pale grey eyeshadow within the taped areas under and over the eye.
5. Use a darker grey shadow towards the point of the triangle, to create a faded ombre effect.
6. Apply a bright white shadow directly under the eye to complete the faded effect.
7. Use eyelash glue to stick the pearls within the triangles.
8. Glue a pearl on each brow bone.
9. Remove the tape.
10. Draw on the brows using black shadow on a wet brush. Make sure to flick the shadow up at the end.
11. Apply Mascara.
12. Line the lips with a dark lip liner.
13. Fill the lips in with A dark plum lip colour, mixed with lip mix.x

Practice of My Partners Design


Both mine and my partners designs went through drastic changes. This was Laynas first design. It focused on the veins that were visible in eliAbethan skin due to how pale they were. We knew we wanted the veins to look realistic so we tried two techniques. The first, shown above, was achieved by using supra colour over a normal base. We decided that this made the veins stand out too much and they looked painted on. 
Next we used Aqua colour to draw the viens on whilst doing the base. We then went over this with face and body, a thin foundation and applied this using a sponge. It gave a much more natural appearance and the viens did appear to be under the skin however Layna still wasn't 100% with her design and so she wanted to go away and work on another face chart. 
This is the final design Layna came up with. We tried this out in a practice session without the pearls and Layna was a lot happier with this look. 
After practicing this look inside and out of class I felt confident that I would be able to achieve it in my final assessment. I loved this design and the sharp geometric shaping of the eyes. 


Instructions for My Final Design

My Final Design

Needed
·      Foundation brush
·      Blending brush
·      Contour brush
·      Liner brush
·      White supra colour
·      Foundation pallet
·      Concealer pallet
·      Powder
·      Eye shadow pallet
·      Aqua colour
·      Mascara

Method
1.   Apply foundation mixed with the supra colour with foundation brush, buff this into the skin with the blending brush. Make sure to apply to ears and neck.
2.   Conceal the face of any blemishes or redness.
3.    Powder the skin with loose powder.
4.   Contour the face with a burgundy eye shadow. This needs to be extreme contouring making sure there is a clear contrast between the pale skin and dark contour. Apply this to the forehead, nose, socket and cheek.
5.   Go over the contour with a deeper, warm brown shade to add depth to the shadows.
6.   Create a burgundy smoky eye on the upper lid reaching towards the brow.
7.   A thin burgundy liner needs to be applied to the top lid using the aqua colour.
8.   Apply mascara, topping the lashes with a single coat of burgundy aqua colour to make the lashes pop.
9.   Create a heart shaped lip out of the same aqua colour.


Working Towards my Final Design

I started my design process by focusing on a simple look that showed off the veins coming from the hairline down towards the eye and down the cheek. The Elizabethan ideal of beauty was a porcelain skin and veins were seen as a sign of beauty because the skin was almost translucent.
However I decided against this idea when I had my meeting with my tutor Kat to talk about my designs as she told me that a lot of the other students were also looking at showing the veins in their makeup.

This design was heavily focused on the colour gold as to me this is the colour of royalty. Although I decided against this look I do realise that I want to incorporate some gold into my final design to hint at that theme of royalty that Elizabeth is iconic for. 


This is the design that brought my closest to my final design. Its a heavily contoured face with a heart shaped lip. 
Although this is the face chart that me and my partner decided to go for it still underwent some changes which I feel were very beneficial to the look, The look was kept monochromatic so the eyeliner was changed to burgundy just like the contour. We decided that the dark colour on the nose didn't suit my face shape and didn't have any correlation to the rest of the faces contour and so we scrapped that. The beauty mark was removed as it made the look uneven and the brows were made burgundy to balance the look. As I knew I wanted to keep gold somewhere in the look to hint at royalty we topped the lashes with gold. This little detail was picked up on camera and just gave the look something extra.
After our first practise of this look Layna took this picture on her phone. This made it clear that the contour needed to be stronger and the base paler to really have the contrast show up on flash photography. I still wasn't sure what I wanted to do with the brows and this was making me doubt the design. However after deciding that a burgundy brow would look best we tried it out and it really pulled the look together. I was a lot more confident of my design now going into the final assessment. 






Masters of Drawing

BBC Culture (no date) Leonardo da Vinci’s groundbreaking anatomical sketches. Available at: http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20130828-leonardo-da-vinci-the-anatomist (Accessed: 8 December 2014).

Leonardo Da Vinci was an Italian polymath, painter, sculptor, architect, musician, mathematician, engineer, inventor, anatomist, geologist, cartographer,botanist, and writer. Although he is most renowned as a painter. He is best known for The Mona Lisa. 

 Leonardo Da Vinci. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/science/leonardo/gallery/monalisa.shtml (Accessed: 8 December 2014).

He  was born in Italy in 1452. he spent a large amount of his life in Milan. he was referred to as the renaissance man as he was so influential at that time across the world.

In class we begin with drawing free hand lines. we then did a gradient of each of our pencils so we could clearly see how hard and what effect each pencil gave.
We then moved on to simple shapes. drawing triangles, squares and circles. we developed these by drawing the 3d's of these shapes. I learnt that I prefer to work with mid to soft pencils as its easier to create shadows and highlights with these pencils. 


Friday, 5 December 2014

Elizabeth in Film

Queen Elizabeth I has been famously portrayed by a number of actresses over the years. The iconic Elizabethan look has been recreated by many different makeup artists, each taking their own take on the look.
The role is such a high honour to portray that actresses are willing to shave their hair line and eyebrows to get into the role of Elizabeth.

Fire Over England (1937) and The Sea Hawk (1940)

SCREEN QUEENS . Screen Queens: Elizabeth I. Available at: http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/screenqueens/ (Accessed: 5 December 2014).

Flora Robson starred as Queen Elizabeth in 2 films. Both films depict Elizabeth during the time of the armada. Perc Westmore was the Makeup Artist and costume was designed by Orry Kelly and Rene Hulburt. 

The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939) and The Virgin Queen (1955)

SCREEN QUEENS . Screen Queens: Elizabeth I. Available at: http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/screenqueens/ (Accessed: 5 December 2014).

Bette Davis also played Elizabeth twice. She was the first actress to commit to the role by shaving her hairline and brows, risking them never growing back. The make up in the 1955 film is far more 'Pantomine' like, as seen above in the photo. In the 1939 film her skin was made to seem thinner and pouches were drew under her eyes which completely transformed the 50's star from what the public usually saw her as. The make up artist for this film is once again Perc Westmore, one of the famous 'Westmore' make up artists. Costume by Orry Kelly.

Elizabeth R (1971)
SCREEN QUEENS . Screen Queens: Elizabeth I. Available at: http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/screenqueens/ (Accessed: 5 December 2014).

Glenda Jackson portrayed Elizabeth in this 1971 BBC Series. The six part series followed Elizabeth's life from her brothers reign to her death in 1603. Dawn Alcock and Sandra Shepard were the makeup artists on this mini-series. the makeup on this film is a lot more gruesome than those previously done. As Elizabeth ages the makeup gets thicker and more mask like to represent the changes in her skin that would of happened due to the lead based face paint. however the eyebrows and blush application is in a very 70's style. She endured an arduous makeup routine.

Shakespeare In Love (1998)

SCREEN QUEENS . Screen Queens: Elizabeth I. Available at: http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/screenqueens/ (Accessed: 5 December 2014).

Judi Dench played the minor role of Elizabeth in this 1998 Oscar winning film. Although not a lead role a lot of detail and research went into both her costuming and her makeup. Lisa Westcott was the makeup designer. Veronica Brebner was the makeup artist.
 
Elizabeth (1998) and Elizabeth:The Golden Years (2007)
SCREEN QUEENS . Screen Queens: Elizabeth I. Available at: http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/screenqueens/ (Accessed: 5 December 2014).

In this Oscar winning film Cate Blanchett plays Elizabeth I. She, like Bette Davis, also agreed to have her hair line shaved back 3 inches, showing her dedication to the role. Jenny Shircore was the hair and makeup designer. Anita Burger was makeup artist. Jenny went on to win an Oscar for the makeup on this film.
In 2007 Cate reprised her role in Elizabeth: The Golden Age. an older Cate brought a new take on Elizabeth, portraying her personal and political struggles.

The Virgin Queen (2005)

SCREEN QUEENS . Screen Queens: Elizabeth I. Available at: http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/screenqueens/ (Accessed: 5 December 2014).

Anne Marie Duff plays Elizabeth in this highly acclaimed TV series.The series chronicled Elizabeth's life from before her succession to her death and is said to be a far more faithful representation of her life than many other films.
she said the makeup restricted her face in ways it wouldn’t normally.  Neill Gorton was responsible for prosthetic makeup. Lauge Voight who sculpted the stomach and breasts. Vicky Bankcroft working on set doing the application. Karon Hartley Thomas was the head Makeup Designer

Elizabeth 1st (2005)

SCREEN QUEENS . Screen Queens: Elizabeth I. Available at: http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/screenqueens/ (Accessed: 5 December 2014).

Helen Mirren plays the queen in her later years representing her personal life and focusing on her relationship with Dudley and his step son the Earl of Essex. Fae Hammons makeup designer, Su westwood, gemma Richards and Jane hope-Kavanagh were the hair and makeup artists.